英國超級名模 Paul Sculfor 從出道以來,一直都是各大品牌、名攝影師們青睞的模特兒;不管是時裝豪門 Louis Vuitton、Giorgio Armani,還是實境秀「英國超級名模生死鬥」的評審,Sculfor 在時尚產業近30年的成就,不是誰都可以輕易達成的!
東倫敦出生的 Paul,身上叛逆的氣息,隨著年紀漸長,見識漸廣,逐漸消弭,取而代之的是英國紳士的氣息越來越重,這對他的職涯有發生什麼樣的變化嗎?當了父親之後的他又有什麼樣不一定的人生心得呢?以下將為您一一揭露,這位英國超模的人生歷程,以及對時尚產業的看法!
時尚對你而言有什麼意義嗎?
時尚對我來說有著很重要的意義,因為這是我自從1992年以來一直從事的行業。
過去的20年中,你認為時尚界有發生什麼重大的變化嗎?
我認為時尚業在這之間發生了兩個重大變化,雖然看起來很多些微地改變,但產生了很重要的影響。
首先是,攝影從底片模式轉成數位化,這是最大的改變,我認為這改變了很多這個產業裡許多才華和性感的事!
以前在進行正式拍攝時,我們會先有8張照片來建檔。在確定拍攝位置並且攝影師設定好設備後,攝影師會先測光和用拍立得拍照來確認一切都是完美的;而且,模特兒、髮型師和化妝師都必須確切地知道他們在做什麼,這樣才能得到一張完美的照片,因為拍完照之後,沒有現在所謂的修片,或者數位調色。現場的每個人都得對每張照片都投入了全部百分百的精力。
再來,社群媒體當然也是一件大事,像是我最近拍了一個時裝大片,當現場所有設備都準備好時,其他模特兒卻突然拿起手機開始自拍,但是客戶當然不允許這樣的事情發生,所以那位模特兒當然就被要求離開攝影現場。這個例子正向的一面,就是社群媒體給你了自由,但同時別人也可以同樣的擁有其他自由。
社交媒體顯然是另一大媒體。我最近在進行一次大型拍攝,在那裡我們進行了所有設置,當另一位模特拿出他的手機並開始拍照時,我們準備拍攝-由於客戶不同意,他被要求離開。所有這些都具有積極的一面,因為它為人們提供了更多的自由。
您認為在鏡頭前最完美的姿態是什麼?
與我合作過的攝影師中,有幾位總是每次都能精準的拍攝到我最棒的模樣,像是 Bruce Weber 和 Rankin,而這兩位也是我每次合作時都非常享受其中的攝影師。
身為「英國超級名模生死鬥」的評審。你怎麼看這件事?
我真的很高興成為這個秀的評審,因為我必須在鏡頭的另一側以建設性的方式批評和啟發女孩們未來在時尚界中的每一個可能性。
成為父親後,你認為你的職業生涯有什麼變化嗎?
這個角色絕對徹底的改變了我!現在的我很清楚,我並不想要花太多時間在拍攝上,但是我也不會肯定的說,成爸爸之後對我發生多麽戲劇化地改變。
在你的時尚之旅中,遇過最大的挑戰是什麼?
最大的挑戰可能就是我年紀越來越大了吧!在九零年代、2000年時,我一年大概要飛100~150次,這對我身體健康的維持,以及對每件事情的變化及新鮮感都不再產生太多的反應。
您認為哪首歌可以完美地描述您的生活?
天哪,這真是一個好問題?我會盡快找到答案!
您最近播放了哪首歌?為什麼?
Notorious BIG 的 Juicy;因為我可以完全體會他對生活困境的感受。
您曾經品嚐過台灣舉世聞名的珍珠奶茶嗎?
我最近在澳洲的雪梨喝過,老實說我還蠻喜歡的。
Paul Sculfor, the British supermodel, has been modelling for all major brands and is the top man for many iconic photographers since his debut. Sculfor has been in the fashion industry for nearly 30 years, he nailed many Internation fashion houses, such as Louis Vuitton, Giorgio Armani...etc. and was a judge for the "Britain's Next Top Model". These achievements aren't many people can reach even some big names you can right away say it out.
Paul Sculfor, born in East London, his rebellious-like and gentleman's vibes is his most iconic mark. As a supermodel, he influences the new generation and people who adore this industry. His point of view in fashion is extremely important. Therefore, the following will reveal to you, what does this icon think of fashion and after being a father, has his life changed?
What does fashion mean to you?
Fashion has been my job & my career since 1992 -so it means a lot!
Do you think there are any significant changes in the fashion industry during these two decades?
There has been two major changes in the fashion industry and many small but significant ones.
First of all, when photography moved from film to digital -this was the biggest change which I feel took away a lot of talent and sexiness!
Before a typical shoot, we would have 8 images to achieve. After the location was sourced and set up -the photographer would do lighting tests and polaroid’s to get everything perfect. The model /hair & makeup would have to know exactly what they were doing so that this picture would be perfectly captured as there was no retouching or digital enhancement after. Everybody was fully invested in each image.
Social media is obviously another big one. I was on a big shoot recently where we had set everything up and we were ready to shoot when the other model pulled out his phone and started taking selfies -he was asked to leave as the client did not approve. There is a positive side to all of this as it gives people access and a little more freedom.
What's your excellent catch in front of the camera?
There are a few photographers that catch me right every time and who I enjoy working with, in particular, Bruce Weber & Rankin.
It’s when they catch an emotional/feeling
You were the judge in Britain's Next Model. How do you feel about it?
I really enjoyed being part of this-I got to be on the other side of the camera and constructively criticise and enlighten the girls on their possible future in fashion.
After being a father, do you think there's any change in your career?
There is definitely a change in me!! I know I now don’t like to be away on shoots for too long. But I wouldn’t say anything drastic has changed me.
What's the most remarkable challenge in your fashion journey?
It’s probably now as I get older!
In the ’90s and early 2000s, I would fly 100-150 times a years and this was a real challenge to stay healthy and grounded in all the excitement and change
Which song do you think that you can perfectly describe your life?
Omg what a good question? I’ll get back to you!
Which song did you play the most recently? Why?
Juicy -Notorious BIG
Because I Relate to his struggle in life.
Have you ever tasted the world-famous bubble tea from Taiwan?
I had bubble tea when I was in Sydney Australia recently and really enjoyed it actually.
Photography courtesy for Select Model Management
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