Jun 17, 20213 min read

PRADA 撞擊出最炫爛的火花/  PRADA, The Most Dazzling Spark

看見改革的力量

對時尚產業而言一成不變才是危機，在經過2020年的動盪洗禮，各個品牌也開始探討不同議題。有重新反思定位的、找尋品牌或設計初衷的，更有藉由疫情發揮的，每一個變化或大或小，在此刻都是新的嘗試，希冀從中找到過渡艱困時期的方法。同時這樣的變化，也影響著觀看者，得以去想像未來流行的樣貌。

在Raf Simons助陣後，PRADA的新男裝給人改頭換面的感受，對比了過去，無論是顏色、質感或是剪裁線條都豐富了起來。就如同他在秋冬男裝秀後說的：「服裝緊緊抓住身體並吸引人們觸碰，在這個如此短暫及數位化的時代，可以與人體產生深刻的長久共鳴」。「觸覺」是Raf Simons和品牌掌門人Miuccia Prada的最大公約數，以此為出發運用大量的幾何圖案針織緹花面料，製成最貼身的上衣或是連身裝。所有的針織衣物都有不同的質地和緹花圖案，即使這樣的技巧，在Raf Simons個人男裝品牌中，曾被使用過，但他就是有能耐的轉化成非常PRADA的風格。

在這之上，兩人再堆疊簡潔俐落的單排釦及雙排釦外套；具份量感的飛行員夾克、鐘型大衣，不只讓穿著者感受到彼此的差異，還體現了視覺上的層次。然而揉和男、女性特質，也是Raf Simons的拿手好戲，因此捲起西裝外套袖子、西裝褲腳，露出內搭的印花貼身上衣和內搭褲。同時藉由上寬下窄的輪廓，演繹剛毅與女性化的平衡，並呼應PRADA向來的二元對立精神。對比語言，貫穿整個系列，不只是服裝的面料，包含了剪裁、顏色，甚至連空間皆是如此。PRADA以意想不到的色彩刺激著感官，搭配由建築師大師Rem Koolhaas 和AMO所共同設計的秀場，讓男模穿過紫、紅與黑等顯眼色彩中，對此Raf Simons說：「即使是大膽色調，也能表現溫暖與感性」。

After Raf Simons helped out, PRADA's new menswear gave people a new look and contrasted with the past. Whether it is colour, texture or tailored lines, it is enriched. As he said after the Autumn/Winter menswear show: "Clothes hold the body tightly and attract people to touch. In this short and digital age, it can have a deep and long-lasting resonance with the human body." "Tactile" is the greatest common divisor of Raf Simons and brand owner Miuccia Prada. Based on this, a large number of geometric pattern knitted jacquard fabrics are used to make the most intimate tops or jumpsuits. All knitted clothes have different textures and jacquard patterns. Even though this technique has been used in the personal menswear brand of Raf Simons, he is capable of transforming it into a very PRADA style.

On top of this, the two stacked simple, neat single-breasted and double-breasted jackets; the weighty bomber jackets and bell-shaped coats not only let the wearers feel the difference between each other, but also reflect the visual hierarchy. However, it is Raf Simons’ skill to combine male and female qualities, so he rolled up the sleeves of the suit jacket and the trousers of the suit to reveal the printed undershirt and leggings. At the same time, with a wide upper and a narrow outline, it interprets the balance of fortitude and femininity, and echoes the spirit of duality that has always been PRADA. The language of contrast runs through the entire collection, not just the fabric of the clothing, but also the tailoring, the colour, and even the space. PRADA stimulates the senses with unexpected colours. With a show designed by architects Rem Koolhaas and AMO, the male model can pass through the conspicuous colours of purple, red and black. Raf Simons said: "Even bold tones can express warmth and sensibility.”