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Dylan Tang

Louis Vuitton 度假系列三部曲最終章/ Louis Vuitton Cruise 2018 Collection


時裝豪門品牌Louis Vuitton 的度假系列終於來到了最終章;這一次的女裝系列是根據前兩場分別在巴西.里約,以及美國.加州所舉辦的度假系列的延伸作品,2018的度假系列,選在日本.京都的美秀美術館。

整個系列共55 套服裝被設計出來之前,Louis Vuitton 已經決定好日本就是下個舉辦時裝秀的地點,因此對於愛好日本文化的創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière 來說,他可以盡情地發揮對於日本的遐想以及所愛。Nicolas Ghesquière 接受紐約時報記者採訪時說道 「美秀美術館的建築美得非常不可思議,在我腦海裡,我總是幻想著這裡辦著一場時裝秀。」

‘’因為人們來看你的秀,看你設計的服裝但同時間也將你對於建築以及自然的感受分享給他們

在這樣的情境裡設計服裝讓我更加興奮“

- Nicolas Ghesquière

Louis Vuitton 品牌一開始就是以度假旅遊商品起家,當初 Vuitton 所設計的行李箱可是有相當好的名聲以及名符其實的品質,因此對於經過三年,分別在不同國家舉辦時裝秀的 Louis Vuitton 來說,這樣的三部曲更符合品牌當初的精神,也將所謂的 ’度假系列‘ 真正的貫徹其名。

Nicolas Ghesquière 對於這一次度假系列的設計,深受一九七零年代的野良貓系列電影,更在歌舞伎文化上做了發揮;除此之外,更在設計配件上與日本設計師山本寬齋一同合作,但與其說合作,倒不如說是對於這個日本一代鬼才的致敬。在伸展台的照片以及影片中都可以看到歌舞伎文化的重要配件:腰帶以及妝容。

在Louis Vuitton 擔任設計總監即將邁入第四年,這一次的Cruise 2018系列或許是 Nicolas Ghesquière 上任以來最搶眼的表現,因為這一次的度假系列,除了完美的交織東西方文化外,更在建築上、文化上,都讓人對於這位設計師所交出的成績單感到敬佩。

French Fashion House, Louis Vuitton, conducted their Cruise 2018 perfectly in Kyoto, Japan and this is the final chapter of the Trilogy of Vuitton's cruise collection.

This year, Louis Vuitton pined Miho Museum for cruise '18 fashion show, it has followed previous cruise shows held at the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in Rio and Dolores Hope estate in California. Mr. Ghesquière told The New York Time “I came out thinking this is incredible, the architecture, the landscape, of course, in my head, there’s always a fashion show going on — it’s weird, maybe?” he said, laughing. “But when we decided that Japan was the destination, I said I know where I want to be.”

“I think it’s more exciting to do a cruise collection in that context, where you bring people to see your clothes and your fashion, of course, but also to be able to share another feeling, of architecture and nature.”

- Nicolas Ghesquière

Vuitton is a travellers’ label, founded on trunks, therefore, it does not surprised that Louis Vuitton makes fashion show in three different cities and three different countries.

Cruise 2018 collection showcased how Mr. Ghesquière has influenced by Japanese culture. The whole show from beginning to the end, you can tell there is a classical references of obi belts and Kabuki masks. Furthermore, the Japanese girl-gang bikers movie ''Stray Cat Rock'' of 1970s. He also worked with Kansai Yamamoto who is the legendary Japanese designer.

Nicolas Ghesquière took the creative director position in Louis Vuitton has nearly four years and the Cruise 2018 might be Mr. Nicolas Ghesquière's most impressive performance. Cruise 2018 was not only merged West and East but created the sparkle between architecture, nature and history.

​Photography from Louis Vuitton

 

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